Index
Why photos matter more than the description
Before shooting: prepare the car and the setting
The 15 must-have photos
Light: when and how to shoot
Angles that work and angles that don't
Interior photos: the details that sell
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photography mistakes that scare away buyers
Frequently asked questions
A car advert with 3 blurry photos taken in a dark car park sends a clear message to the buyer: "the seller doesn't care". And if the seller doesn't care about the advert, the buyer won't care about your car. Next advert.
The data confirms it: listings with more than 10 quality photos receive between 3 and 5 times more clicks and enquiries than those with few or poor photos. The difference isn't down to a better camera: it's down to preparation, light, and knowing what to photograph. All you need is a smartphone and 30 minutes.
In this guide, we explain exactly how to take the photos that sell, with concrete instructions you can follow step by step.
Before shooting: prepare the car and the setting
Photos don't start when you pull out your phone. They start when you prepare the car and the location.
The car must be immaculate. Washed on the outside (bodywork, wheels, windows), vacuumed on the inside, dashboard clean, boot empty, and free of personal items. If you take photos of a dirty car, no angle or light will save it. Cleanliness is the non-negotiable prerequisite. Check our guide on how to prepare your car to sell it for more money for full details.
The location matters. Look for a clean and neutral background. Ideally, an open space with uniform pavement (an empty car park, a clearing, a quiet street) with no surrounding cars, no wheelie bins, and no walls covered in graffiti. The background should not distract: the star is your car, not the scenery.
Avoid taking photos inside a garage (artificial light, harsh shadows, limited space), in busy streets (other cars, pedestrians, distracting elements), or in front of your house (privacy, a domestic background that reduces professionalism).
Remove distracting elements from the car. Windscreen stickers (except compulsory ones), hanging air fresheners, dashboard sunshades, aftermarket seat covers, objects in cup holders. The buyer wants to see the car as standard, not your accessories.
The 15 must-have photos
There's no need to take 50 photos. With 15-20 well-chosen ones, you cover everything the buyer needs to see. This is the minimum set that works.
Exterior (7 photos):
Centred front. Straight on, at headlight level, centred. This is the main photo of the listing. It should show the whole car without cutting off any elements.
Front three-quarter. From the front-left corner, slightly above headlight level. This is the most flattering angle for most cars and is usually the second most-viewed photo.
Left side. Full profile, centred on the car. Ensure it's visible from wheel to wheel without being cut off.
Right side. The same from the other side. The buyer wants to see both sides to check for asymmetries or dents.
Rear three-quarter. From the rear-right corner. This shows the car's line from its most dynamic angle.
Centred rear. Straight on to the rear, showing lights, number plate (you can blur it if you prefer) and tailgate/boot.
Wheel detail. A close-up photo of a clean wheel, showing the condition of the tyre and the wheel design.
Interior (5 photos):
Full dashboard. From the back seat or from the outside with the door open. This should show the steering wheel, the screen, the centre console and the instrument cluster.
Instrument cluster with mileage. With the ignition on. The mileage must be legible. If there is a digital screen, it should show the total mileage. This photo is mandatory: it builds trust regarding the declared mileage.
Mileage is one of the key factors of value. Check how to find out how much your car is worth.
Front seats. From the passenger door, showing both seats. This should show the condition of the upholstery (cloth or leather), the steering wheel, and the gear stick.
Rear seats. From the rear door. Legroom, condition of the upholstery, and visible seat belts.
Boot open and empty. From behind, with the tailgate or boot fully open. This should show the available space. An empty and clean boot conveys space and care.
Mechanics and details (3 photos):
Engine. Bonnet open, engine visible. It doesn't need to be immaculate, but reasonably clean and with no visible leaks.
Detail of standout equipment. If your car has a panoramic roof, 360 camera, large screen, premium sound system or any highly-valued extra, take a specific photo of it.
Visible defects. Every dent, scratch or defect the car has deserves its own photo. We expand on this in a separate section.
Light: when and how to shoot
Light is the factor that makes the biggest difference between a professional photo and an amateur one. And you don't need equipment: you just need to choose the right moment.
Best time: early morning or late afternoon. Low sunlight (the first two hours after sunrise or the last two before sunset) is warm, soft, and has no harsh shadows. This is called the "golden hour" and makes any car look good.
Acceptable time: cloudy day. Clouds act as a giant diffuser. The light is even, with no harsh shadows or reflections. This is the second-best option and has the advantage of working at any time of day.
Avoid: midday with strong sun. Direct sunlight creates harsh shadows under the car, blinding reflections on the bodywork, and excessive contrast that hides details. If you can only take photos at midday, look for shade (but even shade, not partial).
Always avoid: artificial light. Fluorescent lights in a garage, petrol station lights, or mobile flashes generate artificial colours, strange shadows, and an aesthetic that screams "poor-quality photo".
Direction of light. The sun should be behind you (lighting the car from the front) or slightly to the side. Never shoot directly into the sun (backlight): the car will turn out dark and the background overexposed.
Angles that work and angles that don't
The ideal height is headlight level. Not from above looking down (squashes the car), nor from the ground looking up (distorts proportions). Having the camera at the height of the car's headlights gives the most natural and flattering perspective.
Distance: 3-5 metres. Far enough away so that the whole car fits in the frame without wide-angle distortion. If you are too close, the mobile uses the wide-angle lens and distorts the car's lines (the front looks wider, the rear narrower).
Always horizontal. All exterior photos must be horizontal (landscape). Vertical photos cut off the car or leave too much sky/ground.
Interior: can be vertical. Photos of the dashboard and seats can work in both landscape and portrait. Use the format that best shows what you want to display.
Do not tilt the phone. Crooked photos convey haste and carelessness. Keep the camera level.
Interior photos: the details that sell
The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves. Every interior photo should answer a buyer's question.
Dashboard. "What equipment does it have? Big screen? Well-preserved controls?" Take the photo with the screen turned on if possible. A lit-up dashboard with the screen displaying the main menu looks better than a switched-off one.
Instrument cluster. "How many miles has it actually done? Are there any warning lights?" Turn on the ignition so the cluster lights up. Make sure the mileage is legible in the photo. If there is a warning light on (even if it's just for a service), the buyer will see it. It's better they see it in the photo (with your explanation in the description) than upon viewing.
Seats. "Are they in good condition? Leather or fabric? Wear and tear?" Take the photo with the seat in a middle position, seatbelt retracted, and no objects on top.
Boot. "How much fits inside?" The photo should show the real volume. Completely empty, without the parcel shelf if possible (or with and without the shelf in two separate photos).
Panoramic roof (if it has one). From the inside, with the roof open or partially open. This is one of the most highly-valued extras and deserves its own photo.
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photographing defects seems counterproductive, but it is one of the smartest decisions you can make as a seller.
Why it works. An advert that shows defects conveys transparency. The buyer thinks "if they are showing the dents, they aren't hiding anything". This builds trust, which translates into less haggling and a viewing where the buyer gets no surprises.
Why hiding them fails. If you don't photograph a dent, the buyer will discover it during the viewing. At that point, they will think two things: "what else are they hiding?" and "this is worth less than they are asking". The dent that would have been a minor detail in the photo becomes a bargaining chip in person to knock hundreds of pounds off.
How to photograph defects. One general photo showing where the defect is (panel, corner, area) and one close-up photo showing the detail of the damage. In the listing description, mention it: "Scratch on the rear bumper on the right side, visible in photos 14 and 15. The price already reflects this detail."
Photography mistakes that scare away buyers
Too few photos. A listing with 3 photos breeds suspicion. If the seller only shows 3 angles, what's going on with the others? The buyer assumes the worst.
Blurry photos. If the photo isn't sharp, don't use it. Retake the photo until it comes out well. A blurry photo is worse than no photo at all.
Photos with a dirty car. This is the most serious and avoidable mistake. If you don't have time to wash it, don't take photos. Wait until you have a clean car.
Bad photos are one of the mistakes that make you sell your car for less money.
Photos with people or pets. The buyer wants to see the car, not your family. If someone appears in the photo, retake it.
Photos with the number plate too visible. Some sellers blur the number plate for privacy. It is optional, but if you decide to leave it visible, make sure the car doesn't have outstanding fines or charges that someone could look up.
Selfies in the mirrors. If you are reflected in the bodywork or windows, find another angle. It distracts and looks unprofessional.
Photos with filters or excessive editing. Don't apply Instagram filters or edit the colour. The buyer wants to see the real car, not an idealised version. When they arrive for the viewing and the car doesn't look like the photos, you will lose credibility and negotiate from a position of weakness.
Dealcar: value your car for free and receive offers from dealerships
With Dealcar, you don't need perfect photos to sell. You can value your car for free in less than 30 seconds by entering just the registration number and basic details. More than 1,000 verified dealerships compete for your car based on objective data.
Adding photos improves the offers (as dealerships can better assess the condition), but it is not mandatory to start. If you prefer not to publish adverts or do photo shoots, Dealcar is the direct alternative.
100% free for you. No commissions or hidden costs.
You get paid before handing over the keys. Bank transfer before delivering the car.
They collect the car from your home. No travel required.
No paperwork. The buyer handles the transfer, DGT, and all the paperwork.
On average, 1,400 euros more than selling on Wallapop.
If you prefer not to take photos or publish, check how to sell your car without publishing adverts.
More than 12,000 cars sold and an average rating of 4.9 out of 5.
Frequently asked questions
How many photos should I put in the advert? Between 15 and 20. Adverts with more than 10 photos receive between 3 and 5 times more enquiries than those with fewer than 5. There is no penalty for uploading many, but there is for uploading too few.
Do I need a professional camera? No. Any smartphone from the last 5 years takes more than adequate photos for a car listing. What matters is the light, the cleanliness of the car, and the angles, not the camera.
Should I photograph the defects? Yes. Photographing defects builds trust and filters buyers. Anyone who is still interested after seeing the dent is a genuine buyer. Someone who would have backed out upon seeing it in person would have wasted your afternoon on a failed viewing.
What is the best time to take the photos? Early morning or late afternoon (soft, warm light). A cloudy day also works at any time (even light without shadows). Avoid midday with strong sun and never use artificial light.
Do interior photos matter as much as exterior ones? Yes. The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves driving. A clean and well-photographed interior builds just as much (or more) trust than an immaculate exterior. The photo of the instrument cluster with the mileage is one of the most important in the entire listing.
