Index
Why photos matter more than the description
Before you shoot: prepare the car and the setting
The 15 essential photos
Light: when and how to photograph
Angles that work and angles that don't
Interior photos: the details that sell
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photographic mistakes that scare away buyers
Frequently asked questions
A car ad with 3 blurry photos taken in a dark car park sends a clear message to the buyer: "the seller doesn't care". And if the seller doesn't care about the ad, the buyer doesn't care about your car. Next ad.
The data confirms it: ads with more than 10 quality photos receive between 3 and 5 times more clicks and enquiries than those with few or poor photos. The difference isn't a better camera: it's preparation, light, and knowing what to photograph. All you need is a smartphone and 30 minutes.
In this guide, we explain exactly how to take the photos that sell, with concrete instructions you can follow step-by-step.
Before you shoot: prepare the car and the setting
The photos don't start when you pull out your phone. They start when you prepare the car and the location.
The car must be immaculate. Washed on the outside (bodywork, rims, windows), vacuumed on the inside, dashboard clean, boot empty, and free of personal items. If you take photos of a dirty car, no angle or light will save it. Cleanliness is the non-negotiable prerequisite. See our guide on how to prepare your car to sell it for more money for the full details.
The location matters. Look for a clean, neutral background. Ideally, an open space with uniform pavement (empty car park, open ground, quiet street) with no cars around, no rubbish bins, no walls covered in graffiti. The background should not distract: the star is your car, not the scenery.
Avoid taking photos inside a garage (artificial light, harsh shadows, limited space), on busy streets (other cars, pedestrians, distracting elements), or in front of your house (privacy, domestic background that reduces professionalism).
Remove distracting items from the car. Windscreen stickers (except compulsory ones), hanging air fresheners, dashboard sunshades, aftermarket seat covers, items in the cup holders. The buyer wants to see the stock car, not your accessories.
The 15 essential photos
There's no need to take 50 photos. With 15-20 well-chosen ones, you cover everything the buyer needs to see. This is the minimum set that works.
Exterior (7 photos):
Centred front. Straight on, at headlight level, centred. This is the main photo of the ad. It should show the entire car without cutting off any elements.
Front three-quarter. From the front-left corner, slightly above headlight height. This is the most flattering angle for most cars and is usually the second most viewed photo.
Left side profile. Full profile, centred on the car. Show from wheel to wheel without cutting off.
Right side profile. The same from the other side. The buyer wants to see both sides to detect asymmetries or dents.
Rear three-quarter. From the rear-right corner. Shows the car's lines at its most dynamic angle.
Centred rear. Straight on to the rear, showing lights, registration plate (you can blur it if you prefer), and tailgate/boot.
Detail of the rims. A close-up photo of a clean wheel, showing tyre condition and rim design.
Interior (5 photos):
Full dashboard. From the rear seat or from outside with the door open. Show the steering wheel, screen, centre console, and instrument cluster.
Instrument cluster with mileage. With the ignition on. The mileage must be legible. If there is a digital screen, make sure it shows the total mileage. This photo is mandatory: it builds trust regarding the declared mileage.
Mileage is one of the key factors of value. See how to find out how much your car is worth.
Front seats. From the passenger door, showing both seats. Show the condition of the upholstery (fabric or leather), steering wheel, and gear lever.
Rear seats. From the rear door. Legroom, condition of upholstery, seatbelts visible.
Open and empty boot. From behind, with the tailgate or boot fully open. Show the available volume. An empty and clean boot conveys space and care.
Mechanics and details (3 photos):
Engine. Bonnet open, engine visible. It doesn't need to be immaculate, but reasonably clean and with no visible leaks.
Detail of standout equipment. If your car has a panoramic roof, 360 camera, large screen, premium sound system, or any high-value extra, take a specific photo of it.
Visible defects. Every dent, scratch, or defect the car has deserves its own photo. We expand on this in a separate section.
Light: when and how to photograph
Light is the factor that makes the biggest difference between a professional photo and an amateur one. And you don't need equipment: you just need to choose the right moment.
Best time: early morning or late afternoon. Low sunlight (the first two hours after sunrise or the last two before sunset) is warm, soft, and free of harsh shadows. This is called the "golden hour" and makes any car look good.
Acceptable time: cloudy day. Clouds act as a giant diffuser. The light is even, with no harsh shadows or glare. It's the second-best option and has the advantage of working at any time of day.
Avoid: midday with strong sun. Direct sunlight creates harsh shadows under the car, blinding reflections on the bodywork, and excessive contrast that hides details. If you can only take photos at midday, look for shade (but uniform shade, not partial).
Always avoid: artificial light. Fluorescent tubes in a garage, petrol station lights, or mobile phone flash generate artificial colours, strange shadows, and an aesthetic that screams "poor quality photo".
Direction of light. The sun should be behind you (lighting the car from the front) or slightly to one side. Never photograph with the sun directly in front (backlight): the car will turn out dark and the background overexposed.
Angles that work and angles that don't
The ideal height is headlight level. Neither from above looking down (squashes the car), nor from the ground looking up (distorts proportions). Shutter level with the car headlights gives the most natural and flattering perspective.
Distance: 3-5 metres. Far enough away so that the whole car fits in the frame without wide-angle distortion. If you are too close, the mobile phone uses the wide lens and distorts the car's lines (the front looks wider, the rear narrower).
Horizontal always. All exterior photos must be horizontal (landscape). Vertical photos cut off the car or leave too much sky/ground.
Interior: can be vertical. Photos of the dashboard and seats can work well in either landscape or portrait. Use the format that best displays what you want to show.
Do not tilt the phone. Crooked photos convey haste and carelessness. Keep the camera level.
Interior photos: the details that sell
The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves. Every interior photo should answer a question from the buyer.
Dashboard. "What equipment does it have? Large screen? Controls well-preserved?" Take the photo with the screen turned on if possible. An illuminated dashboard with the screen showing the main menu looks better than one switched off.
Instrument cluster. "How many miles does it really have? Are there any warning lights?" Turn the key to light up the dashboard. Make sure the mileage is legible in the photo. If there is a warning light on (even if it's just for a service), the buyer will see it. It is better for them to see it in the photo (with your explanation in the description) than upon viewing.
Seats. "Are they in good condition? Leather or fabric? Wear and tear?" Take the photo with the seat in a middle position, seatbelt retracted, and no objects on top.
Boot. "How much fits?" The photo must show the real volume. Completely empty, without the parcel shelf if possible (or with and without the shelf in two separate photos).
Panoramic roof (if equipped). From the inside, with the roof open or partially open. This is one of the most highly valued extras and deserves its own photo.
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photographing defects seems counterintuitive, but it is one of the smartest decisions you can make as a seller.
Why it works. An ad showing the defects conveys transparency. The buyer thinks "if they are showing the dents, they aren't hiding anything". This builds trust, which translates into less haggling and a viewing where the buyer gets no surprises.
Why hiding them fails. If you don't photograph a dent, the buyer discovers it during the viewing. At that moment, they think two things: "what else are they hiding from me?" and "this is worth less than they are asking". The dent that would have been a minor detail in the photo becomes in person a reason to knock off hundreds of pounds.
How to photograph defects. An overall photo showing where the defect is (panel, corner, area) and a close-up photo showing the detail of the damage. In the ad description, mention it: "Scratch on the rear bumper, right side, visible in photos 14 and 15. The price already reflects this detail."
Photographic mistakes that scare away buyers
Too few photos. An ad with 3 photos breeds suspicion. If the seller only shows 3 angles, what about the others? The buyer assumes the worst.
Blurry photos. If the photo is not sharp, don't use it. Re-take the photo until it comes out right. A blurry photo is worse than posting no photo at all.
Photos with a dirty car. This is the gravest mistake and the most avoidable. If you don't have time to wash it, don't take photos. Wait until you have a clean car.
Bad photos are one of the mistakes that make you sell your car for less money.
Photos with people or pets. The buyer wants to see the car, not your family. If someone appears in the photo, take it again.
Photos with the registration plate too visible. Some sellers blur the number plate for privacy. It is optional, but if you decide to leave it visible, make sure the car has no outstanding fines or charges that someone could look up.
Wing mirror selfies. If you reflect yourself in the bodywork or windows, find another angle. It distracts and reduces professionalism.
Photos with filters or excessive editing. Do not apply Instagram filters or edit the colour. The buyer wants to see the actual car, not an idealised version. When they arrive for the viewing and the car doesn't look like the photos, you will lose credibility and negotiate from a position of weakness.
Dealcar: value your car for free and receive offers from dealerships
With Dealcar, you don't need perfect photos to sell. You can value your car for free in under 30 seconds by entering only the registration number and basic details. More than 1,000 verified dealerships compete for your car based on objective data.
Adding photos improves the offers (as dealers can better assess the condition), but it is not mandatory to start. If you prefer not to publish ads or do photo sessions, Dealcar is the direct alternative.
100% free for you. No commissions or hidden costs.
Get paid before handing over the keys. Bank transfer before delivering the car.
Home collection. No travel required.
No paperwork. The dealer manages the transfer, DVLA, and all the paperwork.
On average, £1,400 more than selling on classified sites.
If you prefer not to take photos or publish, see how to sell your car without posting ads.
More than 12,000 cars sold and an average rating of 4.9 out of 5.
Use the free Dealcar valuation tool.
Frequently asked questions
How many photos should I put in the ad? Between 15 and 20. Ads with more than 10 photos receive between 3 and 5 times more enquiries than those with fewer than 5. There is no penalty for posting many, but there is for posting too few.
Do I need a professional camera? No. Any smartphone from the last 5 years takes more than adequate photos for a car ad. What matters is the light, the cleanliness of the car, and the angles, not the camera.
Should I photograph the defects? Yes. Photographing defects builds trust and filters out non-serious buyers. The person who is still interested after seeing the dent is a real buyer. The person who would have pulled out upon seeing it in person would have wasted your afternoon on a failed viewing.
What is the best time to take the photos? Early morning or late afternoon (soft, warm light). A cloudy day at any time also works (even light with no shadows). Avoid midday with strong sun and never use artificial light.
Do interior photos matter as much as exterior ones? Yes. The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves driving. A clean, well-photographed interior builds the same (or more) trust than an immaculate exterior. The photo of the instrument cluster with the mileage is one of the most important in the entire ad.
Index
Why photos matter more than the description
Before you shoot: prepare the car and the setting
The 15 essential photos
Light: when and how to photograph
Angles that work and angles that don't
Interior photos: the details that sell
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photographic mistakes that scare away buyers
Frequently asked questions
A car ad with 3 blurry photos taken in a dark car park sends a clear message to the buyer: "the seller doesn't care". And if the seller doesn't care about the ad, the buyer doesn't care about your car. Next ad.
The data confirms it: ads with more than 10 quality photos receive between 3 and 5 times more clicks and enquiries than those with few or poor photos. The difference isn't a better camera: it's preparation, light, and knowing what to photograph. All you need is a smartphone and 30 minutes.
In this guide, we explain exactly how to take the photos that sell, with concrete instructions you can follow step-by-step.
Before you shoot: prepare the car and the setting
The photos don't start when you pull out your phone. They start when you prepare the car and the location.
The car must be immaculate. Washed on the outside (bodywork, rims, windows), vacuumed on the inside, dashboard clean, boot empty, and free of personal items. If you take photos of a dirty car, no angle or light will save it. Cleanliness is the non-negotiable prerequisite. See our guide on how to prepare your car to sell it for more money for the full details.
The location matters. Look for a clean, neutral background. Ideally, an open space with uniform pavement (empty car park, open ground, quiet street) with no cars around, no rubbish bins, no walls covered in graffiti. The background should not distract: the star is your car, not the scenery.
Avoid taking photos inside a garage (artificial light, harsh shadows, limited space), on busy streets (other cars, pedestrians, distracting elements), or in front of your house (privacy, domestic background that reduces professionalism).
Remove distracting items from the car. Windscreen stickers (except compulsory ones), hanging air fresheners, dashboard sunshades, aftermarket seat covers, items in the cup holders. The buyer wants to see the stock car, not your accessories.
The 15 essential photos
There's no need to take 50 photos. With 15-20 well-chosen ones, you cover everything the buyer needs to see. This is the minimum set that works.
Exterior (7 photos):
Centred front. Straight on, at headlight level, centred. This is the main photo of the ad. It should show the entire car without cutting off any elements.
Front three-quarter. From the front-left corner, slightly above headlight height. This is the most flattering angle for most cars and is usually the second most viewed photo.
Left side profile. Full profile, centred on the car. Show from wheel to wheel without cutting off.
Right side profile. The same from the other side. The buyer wants to see both sides to detect asymmetries or dents.
Rear three-quarter. From the rear-right corner. Shows the car's lines at its most dynamic angle.
Centred rear. Straight on to the rear, showing lights, registration plate (you can blur it if you prefer), and tailgate/boot.
Detail of the rims. A close-up photo of a clean wheel, showing tyre condition and rim design.
Interior (5 photos):
Full dashboard. From the rear seat or from outside with the door open. Show the steering wheel, screen, centre console, and instrument cluster.
Instrument cluster with mileage. With the ignition on. The mileage must be legible. If there is a digital screen, make sure it shows the total mileage. This photo is mandatory: it builds trust regarding the declared mileage.
Mileage is one of the key factors of value. See how to find out how much your car is worth.
Front seats. From the passenger door, showing both seats. Show the condition of the upholstery (fabric or leather), steering wheel, and gear lever.
Rear seats. From the rear door. Legroom, condition of upholstery, seatbelts visible.
Open and empty boot. From behind, with the tailgate or boot fully open. Show the available volume. An empty and clean boot conveys space and care.
Mechanics and details (3 photos):
Engine. Bonnet open, engine visible. It doesn't need to be immaculate, but reasonably clean and with no visible leaks.
Detail of standout equipment. If your car has a panoramic roof, 360 camera, large screen, premium sound system, or any high-value extra, take a specific photo of it.
Visible defects. Every dent, scratch, or defect the car has deserves its own photo. We expand on this in a separate section.
Light: when and how to photograph
Light is the factor that makes the biggest difference between a professional photo and an amateur one. And you don't need equipment: you just need to choose the right moment.
Best time: early morning or late afternoon. Low sunlight (the first two hours after sunrise or the last two before sunset) is warm, soft, and free of harsh shadows. This is called the "golden hour" and makes any car look good.
Acceptable time: cloudy day. Clouds act as a giant diffuser. The light is even, with no harsh shadows or glare. It's the second-best option and has the advantage of working at any time of day.
Avoid: midday with strong sun. Direct sunlight creates harsh shadows under the car, blinding reflections on the bodywork, and excessive contrast that hides details. If you can only take photos at midday, look for shade (but uniform shade, not partial).
Always avoid: artificial light. Fluorescent tubes in a garage, petrol station lights, or mobile phone flash generate artificial colours, strange shadows, and an aesthetic that screams "poor quality photo".
Direction of light. The sun should be behind you (lighting the car from the front) or slightly to one side. Never photograph with the sun directly in front (backlight): the car will turn out dark and the background overexposed.
Angles that work and angles that don't
The ideal height is headlight level. Neither from above looking down (squashes the car), nor from the ground looking up (distorts proportions). Shutter level with the car headlights gives the most natural and flattering perspective.
Distance: 3-5 metres. Far enough away so that the whole car fits in the frame without wide-angle distortion. If you are too close, the mobile phone uses the wide lens and distorts the car's lines (the front looks wider, the rear narrower).
Horizontal always. All exterior photos must be horizontal (landscape). Vertical photos cut off the car or leave too much sky/ground.
Interior: can be vertical. Photos of the dashboard and seats can work well in either landscape or portrait. Use the format that best displays what you want to show.
Do not tilt the phone. Crooked photos convey haste and carelessness. Keep the camera level.
Interior photos: the details that sell
The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves. Every interior photo should answer a question from the buyer.
Dashboard. "What equipment does it have? Large screen? Controls well-preserved?" Take the photo with the screen turned on if possible. An illuminated dashboard with the screen showing the main menu looks better than one switched off.
Instrument cluster. "How many miles does it really have? Are there any warning lights?" Turn the key to light up the dashboard. Make sure the mileage is legible in the photo. If there is a warning light on (even if it's just for a service), the buyer will see it. It is better for them to see it in the photo (with your explanation in the description) than upon viewing.
Seats. "Are they in good condition? Leather or fabric? Wear and tear?" Take the photo with the seat in a middle position, seatbelt retracted, and no objects on top.
Boot. "How much fits?" The photo must show the real volume. Completely empty, without the parcel shelf if possible (or with and without the shelf in two separate photos).
Panoramic roof (if equipped). From the inside, with the roof open or partially open. This is one of the most highly valued extras and deserves its own photo.
Photos of defects: the transparency that builds trust
Photographing defects seems counterintuitive, but it is one of the smartest decisions you can make as a seller.
Why it works. An ad showing the defects conveys transparency. The buyer thinks "if they are showing the dents, they aren't hiding anything". This builds trust, which translates into less haggling and a viewing where the buyer gets no surprises.
Why hiding them fails. If you don't photograph a dent, the buyer discovers it during the viewing. At that moment, they think two things: "what else are they hiding from me?" and "this is worth less than they are asking". The dent that would have been a minor detail in the photo becomes in person a reason to knock off hundreds of pounds.
How to photograph defects. An overall photo showing where the defect is (panel, corner, area) and a close-up photo showing the detail of the damage. In the ad description, mention it: "Scratch on the rear bumper, right side, visible in photos 14 and 15. The price already reflects this detail."
Photographic mistakes that scare away buyers
Too few photos. An ad with 3 photos breeds suspicion. If the seller only shows 3 angles, what about the others? The buyer assumes the worst.
Blurry photos. If the photo is not sharp, don't use it. Re-take the photo until it comes out right. A blurry photo is worse than posting no photo at all.
Photos with a dirty car. This is the gravest mistake and the most avoidable. If you don't have time to wash it, don't take photos. Wait until you have a clean car.
Bad photos are one of the mistakes that make you sell your car for less money.
Photos with people or pets. The buyer wants to see the car, not your family. If someone appears in the photo, take it again.
Photos with the registration plate too visible. Some sellers blur the number plate for privacy. It is optional, but if you decide to leave it visible, make sure the car has no outstanding fines or charges that someone could look up.
Wing mirror selfies. If you reflect yourself in the bodywork or windows, find another angle. It distracts and reduces professionalism.
Photos with filters or excessive editing. Do not apply Instagram filters or edit the colour. The buyer wants to see the actual car, not an idealised version. When they arrive for the viewing and the car doesn't look like the photos, you will lose credibility and negotiate from a position of weakness.
Dealcar: value your car for free and receive offers from dealerships
With Dealcar, you don't need perfect photos to sell. You can value your car for free in under 30 seconds by entering only the registration number and basic details. More than 1,000 verified dealerships compete for your car based on objective data.
Adding photos improves the offers (as dealers can better assess the condition), but it is not mandatory to start. If you prefer not to publish ads or do photo sessions, Dealcar is the direct alternative.
100% free for you. No commissions or hidden costs.
Get paid before handing over the keys. Bank transfer before delivering the car.
Home collection. No travel required.
No paperwork. The dealer manages the transfer, DVLA, and all the paperwork.
On average, £1,400 more than selling on classified sites.
If you prefer not to take photos or publish, see how to sell your car without posting ads.
More than 12,000 cars sold and an average rating of 4.9 out of 5.
Use the free Dealcar valuation tool.
Frequently asked questions
How many photos should I put in the ad? Between 15 and 20. Ads with more than 10 photos receive between 3 and 5 times more enquiries than those with fewer than 5. There is no penalty for posting many, but there is for posting too few.
Do I need a professional camera? No. Any smartphone from the last 5 years takes more than adequate photos for a car ad. What matters is the light, the cleanliness of the car, and the angles, not the camera.
Should I photograph the defects? Yes. Photographing defects builds trust and filters out non-serious buyers. The person who is still interested after seeing the dent is a real buyer. The person who would have pulled out upon seeing it in person would have wasted your afternoon on a failed viewing.
What is the best time to take the photos? Early morning or late afternoon (soft, warm light). A cloudy day at any time also works (even light with no shadows). Avoid midday with strong sun and never use artificial light.
Do interior photos matter as much as exterior ones? Yes. The interior is where the buyer imagines themselves driving. A clean, well-photographed interior builds the same (or more) trust than an immaculate exterior. The photo of the instrument cluster with the mileage is one of the most important in the entire ad.
