Index
Why checking before selling saves you money
Administrative check: what blocks the sale
Documentary check: what builds trust
Mechanical check: what the buyer will look at
Cosmetic check: what sets the first impression
Equipment check: what adds value
Complete downloadable checklist
Frequently asked questions
One of the most expensive mistakes when selling a car is discovering a problem when you already have a buyer waiting. The expired MOT you didn't know about. The retention of title you thought had been cancelled. The warning light that comes on just on the day of the viewing. The road tax (IVTM) receipt you forgot to pay and which now causes a delay.
Each of these problems has a solution. But resolving them in a rush, under pressure and with an impatient buyer is more expensive than doing so calmly before starting the selling process.
Systematically checking your car before putting it up for sale is not a waste of time: it is the investment that yields the highest return in the entire process. It saves you surprises, gives you selling arguments and puts you in a position of strength from the first contact.
Administrative check: what blocks the sale
These are the points that can legally prevent the transfer of the vehicle. If any of them is not in order, you need to resolve it before doing anything else.
Registration status at the DGT
Access the DGT electronic office (sede.dgt.gob.es) with a digital certificate, electronic ID or Cl@ve and consult your vehicle's report. Look specifically for three things.
Charges or outstanding debts. If any seizure appears (due to unpaid fines, tax debts or other reasons), the transfer is blocked. You need to settle the debt and wait for the seizure to be lifted before you can sell. Consult our guide on how to sell a car with charges.
Retention of title. If you financed the car and the retention of title is still active (even if you have already paid), the transfer is blocked. You need to formally cancel it. Consult our guide on the retention of title of a car.
Correct ownership. Check that the car is in your name. If you bought it without transferring the ownership, if you inherited it without completing the paperwork, or if the car is registered to a company that no longer exists, you need to normalise the situation before selling.
Valid MOT
Check the expiry date of the MOT on the technical sheet (MOT card). If it has expired or expires in the coming months, consider passing it before selling.
A car with a valid MOT sells faster and at a better price. A car without an MOT raises the question "why hasn't it passed?" and the buyer will assume there is a mechanical problem preventing it from passing the inspection.
The cost of the MOT is around 30-50 euros. The return in buyer confidence is disproportionate.
Road tax (IVTM) up to date
Verify with your local council that you do not have outstanding IVTM bills for the current year or previous years. An unpaid IVTM does not directly block the transfer, but if it has led to enforcement proceedings, it can result in a seizure.
Moreover, a buyer who discovers that there is outstanding road tax will use it as an argument to lower the price or will directly reject the transaction.
Outstanding fines
Traffic fines do not block the transfer (they are personal debts, not charges on the vehicle). But if there are accumulated fines that have led to a seizure, they do block it. Check your fines on the DGT electronic office and resolve them if they are in the enforcement phase. For more details, consult our guide on how to sell a car with fines.
Documentary check: what builds trust
Once the administrative part is clear, check that you have all the Excel documentation ready. This is not to hand it all over to the buyer, but to have it ready when they ask for it.
Registration certificate. Check that it is in good condition and that the details are correct (updated address, correct name). If you have lost it, request a duplicate from the DGT (20.40 euros, 1-5 days).
Technical sheet (MOT card). Check that you have it and that the MOT is valid. If you have lost it, request a duplicate at the MOT station (10-20 euros).
Service history book. Locate it and check that it has the services stamped. If you do it now (calmly), you can organise it chronologically and prepare a summary for the buyer. If you look for it only when the buyer asks for it (in a rush), you convey a lack of preparation.
Repair invoices. Gather the invoices for the most relevant repairs and maintenance: oil changes, brake pads, timing belt, tyres, battery. Organise them by date.
Keys. Check that you have both original keys. If you only have one, mention it proactively. A duplicate of a modern car key costs between 150 and 400 euros, and the buyer will deduct it from the price if they do not know beforehand.
Original purchase contract. It is not essential, but if you have it, it demonstrates your history as an owner and the traceability of the vehicle.
For the complete and detailed list, consult the documents required to sell a car.
Mechanical check: what the buyer will look at
The serious buyer (especially if they are accompanied by a mechanic or if they are a professional) is going to check these points. Checking them beforehand allows you to anticipate objections or resolve cheap problems that the buyer would have used to negotiate hundreds of euros off the price.
Engine and fluids
Oil level. Check it with the engine cold. If it is low, top it up. If the oil is black and thick (a sign that it has not been changed in a long time), consider doing an oil change before selling (50-80 euros filter included). Clean oil = perception of a well-cared-for car.
Coolant. Check the level in the expansion tank. It should be between the minimum and maximum marks. Low coolant can indicate a leak, which is something the buyer will detect.
Brake fluid. Check the level. If it is close to the minimum, it may indicate pad wear (not necessarily a problem, but the buyer will ask).
Screenwash. Top up the reservoir. It is a silly detail, but an empty reservoir transmits carelessness.
Visible leaks. Look under the car (on the garage floor) and in the engine compartment. Stains of oil, coolant or steering fluid are signs that the buyer will detect instantly.
Brakes
Pads. If the remaining useful life is less than 3 mm, the buyer will ask for them to be changed or will deduct them from the price (150-300 euros per axle). If they are above 5 mm, there is no problem.
Discs. Visually check if they have deep grooves or a marked lip. Worn discs cost 150-400 euros per axle. If they are at the limit, mention it before the buyer discovers it.
Noises. Brake gently and pay attention to squeals, vibrations or metallic noises. Any brake noise is a red flag for the buyer.
Tyres
Tread. Measure the depth with a coin or a gauge. The legal minimum is 1.6 mm, but below 3 mm the buyer will already consider it a pending expense.
Even wear. If the wear is greater on one side than the other, it indicates an alignment or suspension problem that the buyer can detect visually.
Age. Tyres have a manufacturing date engraved on them (DOT code). Tyres older than 5-6 years can be hardened even if they have tread, and an informed buyer knows this.
Match. All four tyres should be of the same brand and model (or at least those on the same axle). Mismatched tyres generate distrust.
Lights and electronics
All lights. Sidelights, dipped beam, high beam, indicators, brake lights, reverse, number plate, fog lights, interior lights. A blown bulb costs 2-5 euros. A buyer who detects it thinks "if they didn't even change a bulb...".
Dashboard warning lights. Start the car and check that there are no warning lights on. If there is one, identify the cause before selling. An active engine warning light can make the buyer back out, regardless of the actual severity.
Air conditioning. Turn it on and check that it cools. A gas recharge costs 50-80 euros. A compressor repair, 500-1,500 euros. If it doesn't work, the buyer will assume the latter even if it is the former.
Electric windows, mirrors, central locking. Check that they all work. Electrical faults are cheap to resolve in many cases, but they generate the perception of a car with problems.
Suspension and steering
Shock absorbers. Push down hard on each corner of the car and release. The car should return to its position and remain still. If it bounces several times, the shock absorbers are worn.
Suspension noises. Go over a speed bump or an uneven area and pay attention to knocks, creaks or metallic sounds. These are signs the buyer will detect during a test drive.
Steering. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the car stationary. There should be no noises, stiffness or vibrations.
Cosmetic check: what sets the first impression
The cosmetic check is not about repairing defects (preparation already covers that). It is about identifying what defects your car has so you can declare them and price the car accordingly.
Bodywork. Walk around the car in good light and note every scratch, dent, scrape or rust patch. Be exhaustive. Everything you note is something the buyer cannot use as a "surprise" to negotiate down, because it was already declared.
Windows. Look for cracks, stone chips and scratches on the windscreen and windows. A small chip on the windscreen can be repaired for 30-50 euros. A crack exceeding 15 cm implies a windscreen replacement (200-400 euros) and the buyer will deduct it.
Interior. Check upholstery (stains, tears, wear), steering wheel (leather or plastic wear), dashboard (sun cracks) and screens (scratches). In premium cars, any interior defect devalues the car more than in mainstream ones.
Boot. Check that the parcel shelf or blind is present, that the spare wheel (or repair kit) is in its place and that there is no dampness or smell.
Equipment check: what adds value
Take an inventory of your car's equipment that can add value to the sale.
Extras that add value. Automatic gearbox, panoramic sunroof, 360 camera, parking sensors, premium sound system, electric seats, head-up display, integrated sat-nav, adaptive LED headlights, tow bar. Each of these extras has value for the buyer and should be mentioned in the advert.
Extras that do not add value (or subtract). Non-professional aftermarket accessories, wraps or decals, non-original sound systems, added wings or spoilers, wheels that are not the original ones for the model. These elements may appeal to a niche but detract value for the majority.
Documentation of extras. If you have invoices for extras you installed (tow bar, bike rack, roof bars), keep them. They prove the installation was professional.
Complete downloadable checklist
Use this list to do the complete check before selling.
Administrative:
☐ DGT report: free of charges, seizures or retention of title
☐ Valid MOT
☐ Road tax (IVTM) paid (current year and previous ones)
☐ Outstanding fines checked and resolved
Documentary:
☐ Registration certificate located and in good condition
☐ Technical sheet located
☐ Service book with stamped services
☐ Repair invoices organised
☐ Two keys available
Mechanical:
☐ Correct oil level
☐ Coolant level OK
☐ Brake fluid level OK
☐ Screenwash topped up
☐ No visible leaks under the car
☐ Brake pads with sufficient useful life (>3 mm)
☐ Tyres with acceptable tread (>3 mm)
☐ Even tyres of the same type per axle
☐ All lights work
☐ No dashboard warning lights
☐ Air conditioning cools
☐ Windows, mirrors and locks work
☐ No suspension or steering noises
Cosmetic:
☐ Scratches, dents and scrapes noted
☐ Windows without cracks
☐ Interior without serious defects
☐ Spare wheel or kit present
Equipment:
☐ Complete inventory of extras
☐ Invoices for extras located
Dealcar: value your car for free and receive offers from dealerships
With your car checked and everything in order, the next step is to know how much it is worth. With Dealcar, you value your car for free in less than 30 seconds and receive offers from more than 1,000 competing dealerships.
Professional dealerships especially value cars that are well checked and documented: a car with no surprises generates higher offers than one with uncertainty.
100% free for you. No commissions or hidden costs.
Get paid before handing over the keys. Bank transfer before delivering the car.
Home collection of the car. No travel required.
No paperwork. The dealer manages the transfer, DGT and all the paperwork.
On average, 1,400 euros more than selling on Wallapop.
More than 12,000 cars sold and an average rating of 4.9 out of 5.
Use Dealcar's free valuation tool.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to do the whole check?
The complete check (administrative + documentary + mechanical + cosmetic) takes between 2 and 4 hours. The administrative part (DGT, IVTM, fines) can be done online in 30 minutes. The mechanical and cosmetic check requires a physical inspection of the car for 1-2 hours. The documentary part depends on where you keep your papers.
Should I do the check myself or take the car to a garage?
Most points can be checked by yourself following the checklist. If you do not have mechanical knowledge, a garage can do a pre-sale inspection for 50-100 euros and give you a car condition report that you can use as a selling argument.
What do I do if I find a serious problem during the check?
It depends on the repair cost vs the impact on the price. If the repair is cheap (less than 200 euros) and the impact on the price is large, repair it. If the repair is expensive (more than 500 euros), consider whether it is worth repairing it or selling the car as it is while declaring the problem. Professional dealerships buy cars with declared problems; private buyers avoid them.
Does the checklist apply if I sell to a dealership?
The administrative part (DGT, charges, MOT) is absolutely essential. The cosmetic and mechanical part also adds value, but dealerships are less sensitive to minor details because they have their own repair capabilities. What dealerships value most is documentation and service history.
Can I skip the check if I sell through Dealcar?
The administrative part is mandatory regardless of the channel (without it, you cannot transfer the car). The mechanical and cosmetic part is not mandatory with Dealcar, but a checked and documented car generates higher offers than one with uncertainty. Investing 2-4 hours in checking pays off in the final price.
Index
Why checking before selling saves you money
Administrative check: what blocks the sale
Documentary check: what builds trust
Mechanical check: what the buyer will look at
Cosmetic check: what sets the first impression
Equipment check: what adds value
Complete downloadable checklist
Frequently asked questions
One of the most expensive mistakes when selling a car is discovering a problem when you already have a buyer waiting. The expired MOT you didn't know about. The retention of title you thought had been cancelled. The warning light that comes on just on the day of the viewing. The road tax (IVTM) receipt you forgot to pay and which now causes a delay.
Each of these problems has a solution. But resolving them in a rush, under pressure and with an impatient buyer is more expensive than doing so calmly before starting the selling process.
Systematically checking your car before putting it up for sale is not a waste of time: it is the investment that yields the highest return in the entire process. It saves you surprises, gives you selling arguments and puts you in a position of strength from the first contact.
Administrative check: what blocks the sale
These are the points that can legally prevent the transfer of the vehicle. If any of them is not in order, you need to resolve it before doing anything else.
Registration status at the DGT
Access the DGT electronic office (sede.dgt.gob.es) with a digital certificate, electronic ID or Cl@ve and consult your vehicle's report. Look specifically for three things.
Charges or outstanding debts. If any seizure appears (due to unpaid fines, tax debts or other reasons), the transfer is blocked. You need to settle the debt and wait for the seizure to be lifted before you can sell. Consult our guide on how to sell a car with charges.
Retention of title. If you financed the car and the retention of title is still active (even if you have already paid), the transfer is blocked. You need to formally cancel it. Consult our guide on the retention of title of a car.
Correct ownership. Check that the car is in your name. If you bought it without transferring the ownership, if you inherited it without completing the paperwork, or if the car is registered to a company that no longer exists, you need to normalise the situation before selling.
Valid MOT
Check the expiry date of the MOT on the technical sheet (MOT card). If it has expired or expires in the coming months, consider passing it before selling.
A car with a valid MOT sells faster and at a better price. A car without an MOT raises the question "why hasn't it passed?" and the buyer will assume there is a mechanical problem preventing it from passing the inspection.
The cost of the MOT is around 30-50 euros. The return in buyer confidence is disproportionate.
Road tax (IVTM) up to date
Verify with your local council that you do not have outstanding IVTM bills for the current year or previous years. An unpaid IVTM does not directly block the transfer, but if it has led to enforcement proceedings, it can result in a seizure.
Moreover, a buyer who discovers that there is outstanding road tax will use it as an argument to lower the price or will directly reject the transaction.
Outstanding fines
Traffic fines do not block the transfer (they are personal debts, not charges on the vehicle). But if there are accumulated fines that have led to a seizure, they do block it. Check your fines on the DGT electronic office and resolve them if they are in the enforcement phase. For more details, consult our guide on how to sell a car with fines.
Documentary check: what builds trust
Once the administrative part is clear, check that you have all the Excel documentation ready. This is not to hand it all over to the buyer, but to have it ready when they ask for it.
Registration certificate. Check that it is in good condition and that the details are correct (updated address, correct name). If you have lost it, request a duplicate from the DGT (20.40 euros, 1-5 days).
Technical sheet (MOT card). Check that you have it and that the MOT is valid. If you have lost it, request a duplicate at the MOT station (10-20 euros).
Service history book. Locate it and check that it has the services stamped. If you do it now (calmly), you can organise it chronologically and prepare a summary for the buyer. If you look for it only when the buyer asks for it (in a rush), you convey a lack of preparation.
Repair invoices. Gather the invoices for the most relevant repairs and maintenance: oil changes, brake pads, timing belt, tyres, battery. Organise them by date.
Keys. Check that you have both original keys. If you only have one, mention it proactively. A duplicate of a modern car key costs between 150 and 400 euros, and the buyer will deduct it from the price if they do not know beforehand.
Original purchase contract. It is not essential, but if you have it, it demonstrates your history as an owner and the traceability of the vehicle.
For the complete and detailed list, consult the documents required to sell a car.
Mechanical check: what the buyer will look at
The serious buyer (especially if they are accompanied by a mechanic or if they are a professional) is going to check these points. Checking them beforehand allows you to anticipate objections or resolve cheap problems that the buyer would have used to negotiate hundreds of euros off the price.
Engine and fluids
Oil level. Check it with the engine cold. If it is low, top it up. If the oil is black and thick (a sign that it has not been changed in a long time), consider doing an oil change before selling (50-80 euros filter included). Clean oil = perception of a well-cared-for car.
Coolant. Check the level in the expansion tank. It should be between the minimum and maximum marks. Low coolant can indicate a leak, which is something the buyer will detect.
Brake fluid. Check the level. If it is close to the minimum, it may indicate pad wear (not necessarily a problem, but the buyer will ask).
Screenwash. Top up the reservoir. It is a silly detail, but an empty reservoir transmits carelessness.
Visible leaks. Look under the car (on the garage floor) and in the engine compartment. Stains of oil, coolant or steering fluid are signs that the buyer will detect instantly.
Brakes
Pads. If the remaining useful life is less than 3 mm, the buyer will ask for them to be changed or will deduct them from the price (150-300 euros per axle). If they are above 5 mm, there is no problem.
Discs. Visually check if they have deep grooves or a marked lip. Worn discs cost 150-400 euros per axle. If they are at the limit, mention it before the buyer discovers it.
Noises. Brake gently and pay attention to squeals, vibrations or metallic noises. Any brake noise is a red flag for the buyer.
Tyres
Tread. Measure the depth with a coin or a gauge. The legal minimum is 1.6 mm, but below 3 mm the buyer will already consider it a pending expense.
Even wear. If the wear is greater on one side than the other, it indicates an alignment or suspension problem that the buyer can detect visually.
Age. Tyres have a manufacturing date engraved on them (DOT code). Tyres older than 5-6 years can be hardened even if they have tread, and an informed buyer knows this.
Match. All four tyres should be of the same brand and model (or at least those on the same axle). Mismatched tyres generate distrust.
Lights and electronics
All lights. Sidelights, dipped beam, high beam, indicators, brake lights, reverse, number plate, fog lights, interior lights. A blown bulb costs 2-5 euros. A buyer who detects it thinks "if they didn't even change a bulb...".
Dashboard warning lights. Start the car and check that there are no warning lights on. If there is one, identify the cause before selling. An active engine warning light can make the buyer back out, regardless of the actual severity.
Air conditioning. Turn it on and check that it cools. A gas recharge costs 50-80 euros. A compressor repair, 500-1,500 euros. If it doesn't work, the buyer will assume the latter even if it is the former.
Electric windows, mirrors, central locking. Check that they all work. Electrical faults are cheap to resolve in many cases, but they generate the perception of a car with problems.
Suspension and steering
Shock absorbers. Push down hard on each corner of the car and release. The car should return to its position and remain still. If it bounces several times, the shock absorbers are worn.
Suspension noises. Go over a speed bump or an uneven area and pay attention to knocks, creaks or metallic sounds. These are signs the buyer will detect during a test drive.
Steering. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the car stationary. There should be no noises, stiffness or vibrations.
Cosmetic check: what sets the first impression
The cosmetic check is not about repairing defects (preparation already covers that). It is about identifying what defects your car has so you can declare them and price the car accordingly.
Bodywork. Walk around the car in good light and note every scratch, dent, scrape or rust patch. Be exhaustive. Everything you note is something the buyer cannot use as a "surprise" to negotiate down, because it was already declared.
Windows. Look for cracks, stone chips and scratches on the windscreen and windows. A small chip on the windscreen can be repaired for 30-50 euros. A crack exceeding 15 cm implies a windscreen replacement (200-400 euros) and the buyer will deduct it.
Interior. Check upholstery (stains, tears, wear), steering wheel (leather or plastic wear), dashboard (sun cracks) and screens (scratches). In premium cars, any interior defect devalues the car more than in mainstream ones.
Boot. Check that the parcel shelf or blind is present, that the spare wheel (or repair kit) is in its place and that there is no dampness or smell.
Equipment check: what adds value
Take an inventory of your car's equipment that can add value to the sale.
Extras that add value. Automatic gearbox, panoramic sunroof, 360 camera, parking sensors, premium sound system, electric seats, head-up display, integrated sat-nav, adaptive LED headlights, tow bar. Each of these extras has value for the buyer and should be mentioned in the advert.
Extras that do not add value (or subtract). Non-professional aftermarket accessories, wraps or decals, non-original sound systems, added wings or spoilers, wheels that are not the original ones for the model. These elements may appeal to a niche but detract value for the majority.
Documentation of extras. If you have invoices for extras you installed (tow bar, bike rack, roof bars), keep them. They prove the installation was professional.
Complete downloadable checklist
Use this list to do the complete check before selling.
Administrative:
☐ DGT report: free of charges, seizures or retention of title
☐ Valid MOT
☐ Road tax (IVTM) paid (current year and previous ones)
☐ Outstanding fines checked and resolved
Documentary:
☐ Registration certificate located and in good condition
☐ Technical sheet located
☐ Service book with stamped services
☐ Repair invoices organised
☐ Two keys available
Mechanical:
☐ Correct oil level
☐ Coolant level OK
☐ Brake fluid level OK
☐ Screenwash topped up
☐ No visible leaks under the car
☐ Brake pads with sufficient useful life (>3 mm)
☐ Tyres with acceptable tread (>3 mm)
☐ Even tyres of the same type per axle
☐ All lights work
☐ No dashboard warning lights
☐ Air conditioning cools
☐ Windows, mirrors and locks work
☐ No suspension or steering noises
Cosmetic:
☐ Scratches, dents and scrapes noted
☐ Windows without cracks
☐ Interior without serious defects
☐ Spare wheel or kit present
Equipment:
☐ Complete inventory of extras
☐ Invoices for extras located
Dealcar: value your car for free and receive offers from dealerships
With your car checked and everything in order, the next step is to know how much it is worth. With Dealcar, you value your car for free in less than 30 seconds and receive offers from more than 1,000 competing dealerships.
Professional dealerships especially value cars that are well checked and documented: a car with no surprises generates higher offers than one with uncertainty.
100% free for you. No commissions or hidden costs.
Get paid before handing over the keys. Bank transfer before delivering the car.
Home collection of the car. No travel required.
No paperwork. The dealer manages the transfer, DGT and all the paperwork.
On average, 1,400 euros more than selling on Wallapop.
More than 12,000 cars sold and an average rating of 4.9 out of 5.
Use Dealcar's free valuation tool.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to do the whole check?
The complete check (administrative + documentary + mechanical + cosmetic) takes between 2 and 4 hours. The administrative part (DGT, IVTM, fines) can be done online in 30 minutes. The mechanical and cosmetic check requires a physical inspection of the car for 1-2 hours. The documentary part depends on where you keep your papers.
Should I do the check myself or take the car to a garage?
Most points can be checked by yourself following the checklist. If you do not have mechanical knowledge, a garage can do a pre-sale inspection for 50-100 euros and give you a car condition report that you can use as a selling argument.
What do I do if I find a serious problem during the check?
It depends on the repair cost vs the impact on the price. If the repair is cheap (less than 200 euros) and the impact on the price is large, repair it. If the repair is expensive (more than 500 euros), consider whether it is worth repairing it or selling the car as it is while declaring the problem. Professional dealerships buy cars with declared problems; private buyers avoid them.
Does the checklist apply if I sell to a dealership?
The administrative part (DGT, charges, MOT) is absolutely essential. The cosmetic and mechanical part also adds value, but dealerships are less sensitive to minor details because they have their own repair capabilities. What dealerships value most is documentation and service history.
Can I skip the check if I sell through Dealcar?
The administrative part is mandatory regardless of the channel (without it, you cannot transfer the car). The mechanical and cosmetic part is not mandatory with Dealcar, but a checked and documented car generates higher offers than one with uncertainty. Investing 2-4 hours in checking pays off in the final price.
